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Inner HebridesThe Isle of SkyeSkye, aka “Island of the Mist,” has the distinction of being one of the most photographed parts of Scotland and a big recommendation on anyone’s "bucket list", "wish list", "must see list" or whatever list you call it. It also has what some writers claim to be the finest of views, that of the Cuillins from Elgol. Sir Walter Scott was inspired by it, as was JMW Turner who was one of many artists to visit. See his work, Loch Coruisk, in the Scottish National Gallery. At 80km long and 40km wide, Skye is the largest of the Inner Hebridean Islands. It is steeped in history with wonderful scenery of velvety moors, jagged mountain tops, and sparkling lochs. It is surrounded by a coastline of towering cliffs, bays, inlets, beaches, and water teaming with wild life. Skye is unforgettable!
On route to Portree, the administrative capital of Skye, you can't help not missing the Cuillins, the range of mountains in the south east of the island comprising the Black Cuillin and the Red Cuillin. The former are the remnants of a once great volcano which erupted 65 million years ago. The rock is gabbro - the solidified remains of molten rock from the bubbling magma chamber. The Gaelic poet Sorley MacLean referred to these mountains as "mur eagarra gorm". The hard rock has been shaped into jagged peaks and ridges from the last Ice Age, while the Red Cuillin are a softer granite weathered by wind and rain into more rounded peaks. An attractive and not distant cousin of the Cuillins known as Blaven at 927m high offers magical views towards the Cuillin Ridge. Though not the highest peaks in Scotland they are perhaps one of the most spectacular. Skye has more than twenty Munros on offer and they provide ideal hill walking for all levels as well as spectacular rock and winter climbs. N.B. Whatever you do on these mountains be careful especially in winter. The main ridge of the Cuillins is not a place for the inexperienced climber. To reach the peaks of many of the Cuillins demands rock climbing know-how and skills. Portree"Portree" is a delightful picturesque community with a good range of shops and services and a dash of history. It was in a room in McNabs Inn, now part of the Royal Hotel, that Bonnie Prince Charlie took leave of Flora MacDonald with the optimistic words "for all that has happened madam, that we shall meet in St James, yet", a reference to the King's Harbour. Portree is enclosed by wooded hills with a deep, cliff lined harbour with fishing boats and small craft. It has all the essentials a visitor needs, namely banks, churches, good eating establishments, a cinema, a swimming pool, a library at the school, gift and book shops. There is a helpful tourist information centre, petrol filling stations and supermarkets.
The town has a wide choice of accommodation ranging from upmarket hotels through guest houses and B&Bs. For those looking for hostel accommodation you will find no shortage here either. There is also a campsite nearby. Trotternish Peninsula
When close up you feel that one vigorous push will topple the Old Fella. It is actually part of a massive landslip from the face of The Storr, the mountain behind it which rises 719 metres high and which still from time to time will discard huge blocks of stone. The Old Man can be reached by an easy 30 minute walk from the car park, usually overflowing during peak tourism. There are many other eccentric rock formations, most notably, the Quiraing, an outlandish forest of huge pinnacles and tortured rock further north: Great for photographers, not so wonderful for drivers. The "Quiraing" is a landslip in Trotternish. Offering a stunning view of the Skye landscape, the landslip is still moving - the road near Flodigarry needs repair works carried out on a regular basis. By continuing northwards, round the Trotternish Peninsula, there are two waterfalls of interest. The first is the Lealt Falls. However, you will have to stretch your legs with a hundred metres walk from the lay-by to the gorge and the falls.
Nearby is a view-site where you can see, possibly the most spectacular of the Skye's waterfalls, the Mealt Waterfall, which plunges down nearby cliffs for 60m into the Sound of Raasay with the Kilt Rock in the background. Sometimes, when the wind is strong, the water is blown away and it doesn't reach the bottom at all. The waterfall emerges from Loch Mealt on your western side and is home to a number of bird species, including the greylag goose and diving ducks. Its waters support the rare Orkney charr fish. On clear days the Isle of Lewis and mainland Scotland can be seen from the cliffs. Continue driving round the summit of the Peninsula and find yourself at Uig, the ferry port for those wishing to travel onto Tarbert in the Outer Hebrides. But on your way, take time to visit the Skye Museum of Island Life or the memorial to Flora MacDonald, the brave lass who played such a significant role in Bonnie Prince Charlie's life and the Jacobite Rebellion of 1745. Her name is renowned throughout Scotland. The Isle of Skye FairiesEnter the realm of the Fairies of Skye with an open mind and more importantly with a clear conscious. Otherwise the Fairies will ensure that the heavens will open with a tremendous storm or such a mist that you will see nothing of their magical landscape. If you were enthralled with the surreal landscape of the Old Man of Storr and the Quiraing you will no doubt be asking yourself how it all came about. Well don't, because the Fairies answer to no one! Ask no questions about the Fairies of Skye and you will be told no lies. They only respect your human right to enjoy what was created by them. Until "Getting Back to Reality" the following attractions are associated with these magical little creatures. Fairy Glen
The distinctive peak is known as Castle Ewen and is not difficult to ascend. The Fairies have seen to that. Should you be a true friend of the Fairies they might welcome you to the top of their world. Few people have had the honour, but you never know. In all directions, there are amazing landforms with geological anomalies, not easily explained. Simply put it down to the magic of the Fairies. Remember to leave this enchanted landscape as you found it, never incur the wrath of the Fairies. Dunvegan Castle & the Fairy FlagDunvegan Castle is the big attraction on the northern half of Skye. Perched above the waters of Loch Dunvegan, the castle has been the home of the chiefs of Clan MacLeod for more than 700 years. In the drawing room, you will find the famous Fairy Flag, or what is left of it, revered by clan members who believe it will bring success if waved in battle.
Once upon a time it was said that the MacLeod clan chief was in Edinburgh, attending a grand state dinner, when he was provoked to boast about his home. He said that he had a larger dining hall, a grander table, and more precious candlesticks at home in Skye. Of course, his dinner companions doubted him. How did he prove the truth of his statements? A hint lies in the above picture. He asked them to come to Skye and see for themselves. So, it was that a party of Edinburgh Lords and Ladies arrived at Dunvegan to disprove the Clan chief’s claim. MacLeod had a banquet laid out atop MacLeod's Tables. Fortunately, it was a starry night and his men carried torches to lead the party up the path. MacLeod impressed his guests saying that this was his great dining table, his loyal men were more precious than gold candlesticks and the heavens themselves were his dining hall. The Fairy Pools
Unfortunately, the Fairy Pools have become so popular that they are never quiet in the busy tourist season so both the animals and the fairies stay away. Pick an early morning venture to the pools when the sun is shining, an indication that the magic is afoot and be enthralled at the spectacle of the Fairy Pools. Back to RealityBright Water Visitor Centre - Gavin Maxwell A place to either visit on arrival or departure, assuming you are going by the Skye Road Bridge. The Bright Water Visitor Centre at Kyleaklin offers tours of the island nature reserve "Eilean Ban" over which the bridge passes. This was where Gavin Maxwell, author of "Ring of Bright Water" once lived. The Clan Donald CentreOn the Sleat Peninsula, often overlooked by tourists, in southern Skye is the Clan Donald Centre, perfect for the iconic wild life to be found on the 20,000 acre Highland Estate together with accommodation, visitor centre, museum, and archives and library for genealogical research. This is a "must" of course if you have connections to Clan Donald to discover and understand the history and traditions.
The Mallaig to Armadale Ferry link is expedient when visiting the Sleat Peninsula and offers a pleasant 45 minutes viewing the scenery from the deck or just enjoying a coffee. Should you have come via the Skye Bridge consider this alternative and see more of scenic Scotland. At the foot of the Black Cuillin lies a fresh water loch, away from the beaten tourist tracks. The loch is known as "Coire Uisg" in Gaelic, meaning the "Cauldron of Waters". This is Skye’s precious wee gem, remote, brooding, rugged, and terribly handsome. Loch Coruisk! Access is by foot, namely a long hike, and not for the inexperienced, or via a pleasant boat trip from Elgol.
Loch Coruisk is reputed to be the home of a Kelpie, a Scots name for a mythical shape changing water horse. Kelpies have been portrayed in different art forms over the years, the latest is the 30 metre high Falkirk Kelpies. Before leaving the island savour the “Spirit of Skye” to complete your everlasting memories of your visit with a tour of the small Talisker Whisky Distillery in Carbost, on Loch Harport - a perfect parting of the ways.
The Isle of MullThe "Isle of Mull" is an island of great beauty and emptiness or spectacular landscape and moorland dominated by the massive bulk of Ben More at 966 metres, apart from Skye, the only other Hebridean island to boast a Munro. There has been a history of emigration and evictions due to the infamous Highland Clearances of the early 19thcentury. Mull is a wild and beautiful island for Nature, Wildlife, History, and Heritage with nearly 500 kms of dramatic coastline, excellent beaches, and a castle that's appeared in several films. You can spot Puffins, Dolphins, and Otters, or explore the Lochbuie stone circle and MacKinnon's cave. You can't miss Tobermory harbour's brightly painted houses as you arrive on the ferry.
Mull is well served by passenger and vehicle ferries. The most direct route to Mull is by ferry from Oban, which drops you at Craignure. The journey takes 46 minutes and vehicle reservation is recommended. You can also get to Mull from Lochaline and Kilchoan on Morvern and Ardnamurchan respectively. No advance booking is necessary on these sailings. On its north east side, Mull is separated from Morven on the mainland by the Sound of Mull, a deep-sea trench renowned for some of the best diving sites in Scotland. So much so that some wrecks suffer from overcrowding of divers. Mull has become a popular haunt for Botanists due to large numbers of species of plants, trees, ferns, orchids, and seaweed but in numbers these are surpassed with the 1,787 species of fungi. In spring bluebells are a big attraction and it is famous for its primrose displays. There is an abundant variety of diverse wild life with birds of prey such as the spectacular Golden Eagle, Sea Eagles, and buzzards. Polecats, mountain hares, badgers, pine martens, adders, slow worms, otters, and mink which escaped from captivity can be seen. The lonely coastal cliffs are the ideal habitat for wild goats. However, if you take a sea trip you will be over joyed with sightings of dolphins, porpoises, seals and possibly Minke Whales. Tobermory, the charming little town with its brightly painted houses is set within an amphitheatre of hills which underpins one of the safest anchorages on the west coast of Scotland, mainly thanks to the 18th century British Society for the Encouragement of Fisheries. It did not do much for the fishing industry but today we have excellent harbour facilities as a result as well as a legacy of brightly coloured, elegant Georgian houses stretching along the quayside.
The distillery has had a chequered career since 1797, over more than two centuries, with it only getting off the ground after taking a year for a distilling licence to be granted. The War of the First Coalition with France caused distilling licences to be banned to conserve grain stores. The distillery made its mark until the Great Depression and the American Prohibition of the 193os and it had to close only to re-open its doors in 1970 with the distillery becoming what is considered to be the jewel in the island's crown. The Tobermory to Dervaig road is a tortuously twisting route through dramatic scenery and is one of the most demanding stretches of the Mull Car Rally held every October. Please NOTE that the Rally has had to be dramatically changed and you should keep in touch for more details. Dervaig is considered the loveliest village on the island and was home to the 38 seat Mull Little Theatre which, according to the Guinness Book of Records, was the smallest professional working theatre in the world. After dropping the “Little” to become the Mull Theatre it still puts on a season of plays to a packed audience every year. Mull Theatre merged with An Tobar to create a multi-arts organisation named Comar. Look out for Comar, whose productions, presentations, and development of creative works takes place throughout the year offering a very pleasant and relaxing evening's entertainment. The small village of Calgary has what is considered the best beach on the island with vast stretches of white sand. Find out how it gave its name to Calgary in Canada!
On the approach to Craignure by ferry the great fortress on "Dubh Ard" becomes ever more imposing. Duart Castle, with its huge curtain wall 1o metres high was built in the 13th century by the MacLeans of Duart to protect them from their incorrigible enemy, the Campbells. It was not until 1691 that the Campbells finally managed to sack the castle. Further distress befell the MacLeans when they backed the wrong cause at Culloden and the MacLean estates were confiscated by the crown. The castle fell into disuse and soon became dilapidated until 1911 when Sir Fitzroy MacLean could buy back his hereditary property and start the daunting work of restoration.
Mull's attractions tend to be ruggedly scenic. Near the tip of the dramatic cliff ramparts of Ardmeanach is The Burg, with its fossil tree reached by a rough walk. There is more coastal spectacle at Carsaig, where a very rough path leads west, below lava cliffs, to the impressive Carsaig Arches. The Macquarie Mausoleum is off the beaten track in Gruline, a small hamlet at the head of Loch na Keal. If you have no Australian connections, you are unlikely to bother with a visit. Lachlan Macquarie was and still is the "father of Australia". Born on the island of Ulva, not far from Gruline in 1762 he became the Governor of New South Wales and did much to lay the foundations of the modern Australia. Mull is the stepping stone for your pilgrimage to the Isle of Iona at "Fionnphort" on the south western extremity of Mull, the Ross of Mull peninsula, where you must park your car and take the ferry across the short Sound of Iona.
Isle of IonaThe little Isle of Iona has become famous due to the influential St. Columba who settled here in 563 by setting up his monastery of wood and wattle and proceeded to bring Christianity to the Highlands and especially the Picts. The Isle attracted the attention of the Vikings, in the years from 795, who sacked and destroyed the buildings and much of Scotland's historical records of the time. So, it is fitting that the present Iona Abbey, on the site of the original monastery, was founded by Reginald, son of Somerled who was Lord of the Isles in 12o3, though the present building is early 16th century.
Iona is considered one of Europe's most sacred locations and in summer it unfortunately can become extremely busy. The island itself is small enough to explore comfortably on foot. Next to the small monastery you will find St Oran's Cemetery within which the graves of Highland Chiefs and as many Scottish, Norwegian and Irish Kings. Historians now consider this to be a bit of an early historical marketing exercise by the monks to enhance the status of their abbey. Nevertheless, the history and life of early Christians on the Isle is fascinating, and you can find out more at the Iona Heritage Centre.
The Isle of Gigha"Gigha” is a small island roughly 10 kms long by 3kms at its widest and is reached by ferry from Tayinloan on the Kintyre west coast of Argyll. Being so small the island is best explored on foot via the Gigha Path Network. It is often said that while the rest of Scotland is under rain clouds Gigha is awash with sunshine, one of the myths perpetuated by the Gulf Stream.
On the highest peak named Creag Bhan, a mere 1oo metres high, you will find a 4th century inscribed stone. The main tourist attraction on the island is the 130 hectare Achamore Gardens near the ferry port of Ardminish. Founded by Sir James Horlick, of the Horlicks drink fame, he saw an ideal habitat for exotic plants. Within the natural wooded windbreaks, he created one of Scotland's finest woodland gardens. There are rhododendrons, azaleas, camellias, heather banks as well as a superb viewpoint revealing Jura's spectacular profile. In 2oo1 the inhabitants of Gigha bought the island and manage the island via a trust. This is proving to be a huge step forward for the inhabitants of islands owned by absentee owners and landlords.
Islay - the Whisky IslandIslay has a quite different feel from the other Hebridean islands. In the western half, there is low fertile farmland, rather than crofts. It is truly a beautiful island with hills rising to the east. The large number of whisky distilleries provide work for the local community. The island's relatively mild, wet climate has meant it has been inhabited for thousands of years. Clan Donald, which claims descent from Somerled, made the island the centre of their vast Lordship of the Isles, which was ruled by them as a separate kingdom beyond the reach of Scottish monarchs. On Loch Finlaggan, west of Port Askaig (ferry) you will find the medieval centre of the Lordship of the Isles with its Finlaggan Visitor Centre where you can hear more of that independent spirit which frustrated a succession of monarchs. Incidentally this ancient title, The Lord of The Isles held by those who ruled the Western Isles as vassals of the King of Scotland, was annexed to the Crown by James V of Scotland in 1540, to be passed to his heirs. Currently the title is held by Prince Charles. The town of Bowmore, you may have heard the name before but as Bowmore Whisky, gives its name to this popular brand, and has a rather unusual parish church dating from 1767 as its circular design meant that the devil had nowhere to hide. So, had we better look out for him in the more conventional places of worship? To the south of the island is the peninsula known as the "Oa", a region of caves, cliffs, the famous Soldier's Rock, and tales of smuggling. With the various taxes, duties and now the Scottish Government wishing to impose minimum pricing on our favourite drink, these smuggling stories may become reality!
Opposite the wee island of Texa, to the south of Islay, we have some serious decisions to make as we have a choice of three villages, all with the names of whisky brands, namely Laphroaig, Lagavulin and Ardbeg. Unless one of them is already your favourite tipple or this is a whisky pilgrimage you have to make a choice.
The Cross features an iconic image of the Virgin and Child, which experts consider to be closely related to similar Virgin and Child iconography found on St. Martin's Cross and St. Oran's Cross on the Isle of Iona.
At Port Charlotte you can learn about the natural history and wildlife of the island at the Islay National History Trust. Also in the village is the Museum of Islay Life, which tells of everyday life on the island through the centuries. There is a special display on the many shipwrecks which have occurred on Islay's rugged coastline.
There is a RSPB visitor centre on the nature reserve. Even though the low-lying land is still farmed the extensive acreage provides a wintering ground for geese around the splendid wild dunes and endless beaches of Loch Gruinart (pronounce Groo-nyart), perhaps one of the most beautiful parts of Islay. The west coast has spectacular scenery with superb sandy beaches at Machir Bay, fine seascapes at Saligo Bay, historic footsteps on beguiling Kilchiaran Bay, stunning beaches and cliffs on Lossit Bay, and sands you can walk for ever upon at Killinallan Point. The derelict church at Kilchoman has some interesting grave slabs and two late medieval crosses. The latest addition to Islay's distilleries is named "Kilchoman". Scotland's whisky island has eight working distilleries producing a distinctive single malt. They have their own individual peaty character as the grain is dried over peat fires. This will of course all be explained to you on one of their famous whisky tours. The other famed distilleries are Ardbeg, Bowmore, Bruichladdich, Bunnahabhain, Coal Ila, Lagavulan,and Laphroaig. Look out for the “The Islay Festival of Music and Malt” known as “Feis Ile” which takes place end of May start of June each year. The festival is a celebration of not only whisky but the islands culture taking in Fly Fishing, Garden Parties, Ceilidhs, Ceilidh Dance lessons for the uninitiated, Bowling, Whisky and Cheese Tasting, Whisky and Chocolate Tasting, Disco and much more behind the scenes. Sláinte The Machrie Estate comprises a 16-bedroom hotel, 15 separate lodges, golf shop and the 71-par championship golf course, Machrie Links Golf Course, now simply known as The Machrie. In 1901, the Golf Course was in the news as the Islay Open was played with the prize money being £100, the highest prize money at that time. At the last hole, a putt was deflected from dropping in the hole by a piece of sheep dung, resulting in the prize money being shared. How times have changed!
The Machrie, having recently experienced turbulent times, is back on course so to speak with it being, speculatively, a part of a trinity of courses making a name in the golfing scene, namely with the Machrihanish Dunes, Mull of Kintyre, and the new Ardfin Golf Course on Jura. A great challenge for golfers in one of Scotland’s most beautiful locations.
The Isle of JuraThe island of "Jura" is notable for its peat bogs, mists, and mountains which when viewed from a distance present the well-known and spectacular profile of high mountains known as the Paps of Jura. The largest of the mountains is Beinn an Òir at 785 m high, while Beinn Shiantaidh stands at 755 m high and the lowest of the Paps is Beinn a' Chaolais reaching 734 m.
The route of the annual Isle of Jura Fell Race includes all three Paps as well as four other hills. Despite its size Jura, only has about 200 Diùrachs and they are outnumbered by the huge deer population. Latest estimates by gamekeepers show that the island has approximately 5,500 deer. So, when making a visit to the island an encounter with one of these majestic creatures is highly likely. You might be lucky enough to get close to a stag with his does. Why not visit during the rutting season in autumn? Feolin Ferry is the port of entry and departure directly across from Port Askaig on Islay, its close neighbour. The only road from Feolin Ferry will take you to Craighouse, the islands capital, no more than a village really and home to the Jura Hotel, Jura Stores, Jura Bike Hire and The Antlers restaurant. But then that is its charm! Every Diùrach knows every other Diùrach so you will get a really warm welcome when visiting the Jura Hotel. From April to September however, the Jura Passenger Ferry, a wonderful way to visit Jura, operates a direct route from the mainland village of Tayvallich, on the Knapdale peninsula, to Craighouse on Jura. No cars are allowed on this route but if you give advanced notice bikes travel free. Bikes are a marvellous means of transport up and down the only road on Jura which tends to hug the coastline, thereby making it fairly flat even for pedestrian cyclists. It has the added advantage of being extremely devoid of traffic. A gentle 3-kilometre pedal around Small Isles Bay will bring you to the beautiful Corran Sands.
Get a taste of island life at Jura Distillery, founded in 1810 and resurrected in 1963 to create its now famous single malt. Unlike its island neighbour they forsook the smoky peat flavour by going sweet and smoky. Here’s your chance to see exactly how this unique, award-winning single malt is created using their tall stills. Please book the tours in advance to avoid disappointment. You can sign up to become an honorary Diùrach and claim your free dram of the month! Should you be an avid golfer keep an eye on the Ardfin Golf Course where there is keen interest in this newly rebuilt course which is causing more than a stir on this remote island. The experts are touting it to make a global impact in the ranking stakes. Though whether it will be open to the public, no one knows. Jura is associated with George Orwell who wrote his well-known classic "Nineteen Eighty-Four" at Barnhill, a remote house well up the east coast. He was most likely enthralled by the Whirlpool of Corryvreckan, a tidal conflict at the northern tip of Jura which nearly cost him his life and the lives of his relatives. Between Jura and Scarba, in the Gulf of "Corryvreckan", lies the notorious whirlpool. It is best viewed from the safety of the cliff tops on Jura as it has reputedly sent many a vessel to the bottom. However, that entails a walk of about 8kms from Ardlussa and with today’s adrenaline junkies and high speed and manoeuvrable boats you can now live the real thing. The whirlpool is caused by the combination of an immense pillar of rock rising from the seabed and a tidal race.
The most exciting time to see it is when a spring tide is running westwards against a west wind, the sound of which can be heard at Ardfern on the mainland, more than 11 kilometres away. Other exciting times on Jura take place during the summer months, starting with the June Tastival, at Jura Distillery, celebrating flavour with inspirational new ways to enjoy single malt whisky. Each year, Jura Distillery invites whisky fans from across the world to join them for a full schedule of exciting events. The Jura 10K and half marathon takes place in July, not nearly as daunting as the Fell Race. Competitors set off from Jura Hall, racing to Corran sands and back. The Jura 10K boasts fantastic scenery along the shore side route. Join the competitors, Diùrachs and visitors, for an afternoon BBQ at the village hall. In July, the annual Ardlussa Sports Day includes a tug o’ war, a hammer throw and a tattie and spoon race. There’s fun to be had for adults and kids alike. If you’d rather not work up a sweat, then why not take advantage of the food and drink on offer and join us for a ceilidh in the Jura Hall at night. The August Jura regatta has events ranging from the more traditional open water swim and sailing to a raft race, which sees competitors in fancy dress build their own vessels. Will you take the plunge? Whether you do or not join in afterwards at the village hall for the obligatory BBQ. The Isle of Jura Musical Festival is a well-established favourite, in September, for lovers of the traditional music scene. From the Friday night ceilidh through to the Sunday night concert in the distillery cooperage, you can enjoy a weekend packed with fantastic performances, stimulating workshops, spontaneous sessions, and great craic. (Craic is a Gaelic word, with no exact English translation. The closest you get is “fun.")
The Isle of ColonsayColonsay's grey rock rubs through the rather threadbare moorland where the farms raise sheep and cattle. The rabbit cropped coastal belts are shadowed by hunting buzzards while bird habitats stretch along the gleaming sandy beaches, extensive tidal flats and among the impressive sea cliffs and the lochs. Look out for Colonsay's most famous and scarcest bird, the Chough. These very rare crows are a Colonsay (and Islay) speciality. From a distance that is exactly what they look like but if you observe closely, as they poke about for insects in old cow pats, you can glimpse their bright red beaks and feet. Their survival, research has found out, seems to be dependent on cattle being able to winter outside. Hence the cowpats or as the locals might say "coopats".
The island is owned by Lord Strathcona's family who reside in the rambling pink mansion known as Colonsay House where you will find Colonsay House Gardens, open to the public all year and noted for their tender rhododendrons, thickets of rampant escallonia and other rare species.
Visit the lovely Kiloran Bay with its golden sand and blue sea, surfers, sand castles and highland cattle lying by the freshwater stream.
Colonsay may be reached by sea from the two mainland ports of Oban and Kennacraig and from then island port of Port Askaig on Islay. The longest of these sea trips can be a beautiful one, weather permitting. You will pass between the mainland and the islands of Kererra and Mull and then sail south-west past the islands of Seil, Luing, Scarba and Jura, six stunning seascapes of Hebridean islands. The Isle of Colonsay Golf Club offers golfers a unique experience in a wonderful setting. Step back in time and play golf as the very first golfers in Scotland would have enjoyed their game. The 18-hole course is situated on indigenous machair, short grass growing in sandy soil, typical of the finest Scottish links golf courses. Ceòl Cholasa, the Colonsay Music Festival is held the third weekend of September each year. Colonsay has attracted some of Scotland’s finest musicians to, perhaps, the smallest festival in Scotland. It’s a tribute to Colonsay’s charm that busy musicians take a weekend out of their touring schedules to make music on the island, on stage, in the pub, at impromptu parties and who knows what goes on behind closed doors!
The little island of Oronsay
Be sure to keep a wary eye on the tide!
Staffa Island and Fingal's CaveStaffa is a small uninhabited island with one single notable feature, and what a feature, the famous Fingal's Cave. The cave is formed from hexagonal columns, some 16 metres high, of basalt and with a little imagination represent a grand organ in a natural cathedral. With the correct tide and crashing waves it is an awe-inspiring experience.
The Vikings named the island "Stafi Øy" from which it got its modern name. They thought the columns looked like wooden staves, hence the name. This little island has recorded a series of famous literary visitors: Scott, Tennyson, Keats, and Wordsworth as well as the artist Turner, all of whom came to admire one of the wonders of the world The origin of the name Fingal has been shrouded in the mists of time. It is derived from an Irish general by the name of Finn MacCumhaill, or Fingal for short, who is supposed to have been the father of Ossian, traditional bard of the Gaels. An appropriate choice for this inspiring cave. The composer Felix Mendelssohn wrote his Hebridean Overture, with the famous Fingal's Cave Movement around the time of his visit to Staffa. The 20 years old Mendelssohn can hardly have enjoyed his visit to the cave since it had been a wild day with an even wilder sea with nearly all the passengers on the boat being seasick, including young Felix. However, the visit to Staffa, and the sight and sound of the Atlantic swell tumbling into the Cave, made a profound impression on him. It has been said that the musical theme, where he so aptly captured the rising and falling of the sea and which he later developed into the renowned Hebrides Overture, occurred to him immediately; though he tinkered with the music over several years to become one of the world's most renowned musical masterpieces and an appropriate accolade to the marvels of Nature. |
Portree is the gateway to the Trotternish Peninsula, which stretches for more than 30 kms into the Minch, the sea channel which separates the Outer from the Inner Hebrides. Trotternish is where you will need your camera for some of the most stunning of Scotland's scenery. However, be warned that tourism has started to clog up this road while cameras click and roll on the Old Man of Storr, an extraordinary rock pinnacle some 5o metres high.
Further north is Kilt Rock, a formation of basalt rocks above the shore that resembles the folds of a kilt, with vertical basalt columns to form the pleats and intruded sills of dolerite forming the pattern.
On leaving Uig, weather permitting, consider travelling a couple of kilometres to 
With the imposing Cuillin towering above, the setting in which the Fairies created their 
The tiny 
Further east near Ardmore Point is the highly sculpted Kildalton Cross, carved from a single slab of epidiorite (a form of granite) rock. The Cross is a monolithic high cross in the form of a classic Celtic cross and stands in the churchyard of the former parish church of "Kildalton". It was carved probably in the second half of the 8th century AD, and is closely related to crosses of similar date on Iona. It is often considered the finest surviving Celtic cross in Scotland, and is certainly one of the most perfect monuments of its date to survive on western Europe.
At low tide, the small island of Oronsay is separated from its larger neighbour Colonsay by The Strand, a 2km stretch of sand flats. It is a splashy cockle strewn tidal route, an ideal haunt for plovers. Wellington boots are recommended for a visit to the substantial ruins of Oronsay Priory, an abandoned 14th century Augustian monastery with impressively carved grave slabs and a magnificent 16th century intricately carved cross. John, Lord of the Isles, founded the priory which you can see today, inviting Augustian canons from Holyrood Abbey in Edinburgh. The church is 15th century and the well preserved cloisters date from the following century.
The structure of Fingal's Cave is unique. Nowhere else is there a sea cave formed completely in hexagonally jointed basalt. Its appeal lies in the size, the sounds, the colours, and the remarkable symmetry of this 70 metre cavern. Nature even gifted the cave with fractured columns resulting in a crude walkway just above high water level, allowing explorers to go far inside.
