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Kingdom of FifeExplore the Kingdom of Fife, treasure your time in an ancient capital and play the best golf of your life at St Andrews, Scotland's golfing capital.From the Kingdom of Fife, the birthplace of Scottish Kings and Queens in the ancient capital of Dunfermline, came the game of golf, making St Andrews Scotland's golfing capital. Surrounded by the sea on three sides - the Tay, the Forth and the North Sea - Fife has retained its identity ever since it was established in the Kingdom of the Picts in the 4th century. Dominated by St Andrews in the north east coast, with its long beaches backed by finely trimmed golf courses, and its southern coastline of picturesque harbours and villages, it seems a long way from the Highlands and the legacy of the Industrial Revolution which somehow by-passed this part of Scotland. The Kingdom of Fife has maintained its rural characteristics as well as its European heritage, garnered from its early trading links with the Low Countries, as can be seen in some of the local architecture. It is highly likely that as a tourist you will venture into this historic countryside via one of the six bridges, two of which are railway bridges, linking it north and south. The famous Forth Rail Bridge, now a World Heritage Site is a spectacle in its own right.
Since 2017 there is a trinity of bridges over the Firth of Forth to see you onto the Kingdom of Fife's heartland and the medieval capital of Dunfermline. During the 11th century King Malcolm Canmore established his court in Dunfermline making it the ancient Celtic capital of Scotland. An Abbey and Palace followed in due course, the former becoming the final resting place of Robert the Bruce while the latter became the birthplace of Kings and Queens. Only when James VI, in 16o3, succeeded to the English throne in the Union of the Crowns did Edinburgh take over as the Scottish capital. Dunfermline town centre is replete with history where it is said that you can walk more than 800 years of history in one day, from Celtic warlord kings to the philanthropist and entrepreneur Andrew Carnegie, who was born in Dunfermline. Discover how the town held a very special place in his heart.
Over on the north east coast of Fife there is the handsome and dignified town of St Andrews. A measure of the historic importance of this elegant town is the fact that almost the whole of its town centre enjoys the protection of listed building status. St Andrews was the ancient ecclesiastical capital of Scotland, the seat of the oldest University in Scotland before the hallowed game of Golf made its appearance to make the town even more famous. Every golfer wants to make a pilgrimage to St Andrews where it all started, play the Old Course or one of the many others, view the Royal and Ancient Golf Club and visit the British Golf Museum. If you can take your eye off the golf for a second you will discover the fascinating and turbulent history of Scotland's largest cathedral, its bishops, its martyrs, and how it fomented the start of the Scottish Reformation.
St Andrews has more to offer than just tee-off times and history. It is a hub of activity with the town centre littered with independent retailers, cafés and bars and fast gaining a reputation as a first class shopping destination. The combination of university, golfing tourism and a prosperous farming community ensures that high quality goods are on offer.
After having crossed into Fife by the Forth Road Bridge or the new Queensferry Crossing, the eastern coastline has some of the most picturesque villages in Scotland, names like Aberdour and Kinghorn, with their scenic beaches, lead up to the East Neuk of Fife famous for its fishing villages and harbours such as Elie, St Monans, Pittenweem, Anstruther and Crail.
As you travel the coastal routes, whether on foot, bicycle or by car, you cannot help but notice offshore several islands in the Firth of Forth, namely Inchcolm Island and the Isle of May, two islands which you can visit. The former has the enchanting Inchcolm Abbey and its history while the latter is a haven for those colourful little Puffins who burrow into the ground to nest. Don't forget to explore Fife's inland charms, especially the pretty village of Falkland and its glorious Renaissance palace, one of Mary Queen of Scots' favourite places where she was perhaps at her happiest. Imagine yourself playing tennis with royalty on the royal tennis court, the oldest in Britain. You can even chat with Mary's staff and listen to the latest royal gossip.
St AndrewsReligion, Education & HistoryAccording to legend, a Greek monk by the name of Regulus or Rule, while carrying the relics of St Andrew, one of Christ's disciples, was shipwrecked here and founded a church. (There are many stories of survivors of shipwrecks and storms founding places of worship on this coast. A hazard of medieval tourism!) Thereafter the cult of St Andrew was focused on this part of Fife. The monks name still survives to this day as St Rule's Church and Tower which still survives near the ruined cathedral. From the tower, splendid views across the town provide a better than virtual tourist map.
There is an on-site museum, well worth a visit for a glimpse of a magnificent heritage, including the St Andrews sarcophagus, a masterpiece of 8th century Pictish sculpture. Remember this was the kingdom of the Picts before they disappeared from Scottish history. Hear how John Knox's first appearance in St Andrews did not go down so well for him. The ruins are open any time while the museum is open daily. Within St Rules Tower, a 174 step staircase leads to a platform from which there are grand views in every direction. According to another legend the tower was built to house St Andrew's relics. The present whereabouts of the relics is not known. Your entrance ticket to the Cathedral Museum includes St Rules Tower. You can also purchase a combined admission ticket to the castle. St Andrews Castle is a short stroll from the tower and is situated on a rocky promontory surrounded by the sea on three sides and by a moat on the fourth side.
The castle was witness to turbulent times with gruesome scenes of Protestant martyrs being burned at the stake and the murder of Cardinal Beaton, whose body was hung from the castle walls. See the Martyr's Monument which commemorates the Protestant martyrs who were executed in St Andrews. It was on 28th August 1413 that Pope Benedict XIII issued six papal bulls authorising the founding of the University of St Andrews, now the oldest university in Scotland and the 3rd oldest in the English speaking world. The first classes were held in the cathedral, though not a very satisfactory facility and only in 145o, after Bishop James Kennedy founded and built St Salvator's College were classes moved. By the 16th century St Leonard's College and St Mary's College were added, the latter often considered the loveliest of today's colleges. Visitors are welcome to stroll around the precincts of the university's colleges. When you step through the arch on South Street you are in a grassed quadrangle surrounded by old, mellow buildings from the period onwards. At the foot of the Stair Tower is Queen Mary's Thorn, said to have been planted by Mary Queen of Scots in 1565 when she visited, one of five stopovers. It is thought that she lodged at what is now known as Queen Mary's House in South Street, originally built by one of the cathedral's canons in 1525. The Museum of the University of St Andrews (MUSA) is the most recent addition to the university, having first opened its doors to the public in 2oo8. The university has more than 112,000 artefacts with some real treasures amongst them. The University has three Recognised Collections of National Significance. These are the Heritage Collection, the Collection of Historic Scientific Instruments, and the Chemistry Collection. A selection of the most important items from each of these collections is on display in MUSA. Within MUSA there are four galleries, a "Learning Loft", a shop with some unique giftware and a viewing terrace with panoramic views over St Andrews Bay. You can explore behind the scenes at the MUSA Collections Centre by booking a place on a guided tour. There is now a new display adjoining the Bell Pettigrew Museum which explores the history and development of this fascinating natural history collection. Finally, the last of MUSA's associated venues, the Gateway Galleries, normally host four exhibitions each year celebrating the University’s long and distinguished history.
The British Golf Museum illustrates the history of the game that Scotland gave to the world, naturally with the focus on the role the town of St Andrews played and still plays in its amazing success story. It has an array of exhibits spanning more than 500 years of golfing history. St Andrews is synonymous with golf. The Royal and Ancient Golf Club (RAGC), based in the links town, is the world's ruling body on the game and formulates the rules of the game as well as organising the annual British Open Championship. The United States is the exception, having its own body that works in harmony with the RAGC. Fife has the distinction of being able to boast one of the largest number of Scotland's top golfing venues, even when excluding the contribution made by St Andrews' hallowed greens. Further along the coast there are many excellent links courses, a number of them renowned throughout the golfing fraternity, like Kingsbarns and the two courses at the quantly named Crail Society of Golfers. Choose from our complete breakdown of Fife's Finest Golf Courses, including Golf Resorts and Hotels, their statistics as well as Golf Passes to save you a few bucks. Don’t forget the inland layouts at The Duke’s and Ladybank as these are two of the most enjoyable and challenging courses in the UK. A good round at these venues will place you in seventh heaven. Two great names associated with golf and St Andrews are those of Tom Morris and his son also called Tom. Old Tom became green keeper of the Old Course and was one of the best golfers of his day. His son surpassed his father's achievements by winning the Open Championship three times in a row while still a teenager. Tom opened his shop, overlooking his beloved Old Course in 1866, making it the oldest golf shop in the world. The store has been carefully restored revealing original features, including the flagstone floor and brickwork, all of which add to the authenticity and lineage of the brand as well as giving customers a truly unique retail experience. More Shopping in St Andrews
West Sands beach is considered one of Scotland's best, so it was fitting that it be in the opening scene of Chariots of Fire. But do not forget the East Sands which is popular for walking, sailing and water sports. It can be a starting point for walking a section of the Fife Coastal Path. The internationally recognised St Andrews Botanic Garden displays an extensive range of rare and beautiful plants both under glass and in the open on its 7 hectare site. You can meander along sheltered pathways dappled in summer shade to stumble upon beautiful ponds and herbaceous borders. You will see plants from East Asia in the greenhouses which provide that warmer climate. Just outside St Andrews lies Craigtoun Country Park where a small boating loch, miniature railway, aviary, pet's corner, glasshouse, restaurant, and café provide an excellent family getaway from golf, history and heritage. The Park is a popular picnic spot in summer. Afterwards you might want a wander through the park to admire the floral gardens, the summerhouse, and the avenue of conifers. At nearby Kingsbarns, Cambo Gardens is a romantic Victorian Walled Garden within the Cambo Estate, home of the Erskine family since 1688, though the present mansion dates from 1881. The walled garden is designed around the Cambo burn with waterfall and rose covered wrought iron bridges. At a mere two and a half acres it is dwarfed by the 70 acres of woodland famous for its snowdrops. During February and March, it is bathed in snowdrops and is one of the many locations that take part in the Scottish Snowdrop Festival. DunfermlineWhen visiting for the first time there is a strong sense of layers of history to be peeled away to reveal the historic heart of the town. It was the capital of Scotland at the time of the 11th century King Malcolm Canmore, otherwise known as Malcolm III. This Celtic warlord married Margaret of the English royal house after she was shipwrecked nearby while fleeing the Norman conquest after 1o66. At that time, Scotland was a small fragile kingdom, precariously perched on the edge of an unknown world and a world which did not know Scotland. It was Margaret who brought refinement to the Celtic court and made the country think of itself as an integral part of Europe. Under Margaret and Malcolm, who was also a driving force, trade with the continent flourished. Malcolm revelled in this new found prosperity. Although he could neither read nor write he sought refinement and culture. He moved Scotland's capital from Perthshire to Dunfermline to be nearer the ports on the Fife coast that traded with Europe. Under Margaret's influence the centre of power shifted once more to Edinburgh, which much later became the nation's capital. The pious Margaret, a complete contrast to her warlord husband, provided a certain balance and harmony to Scotland. She would frequently visit the cave, now known as St Margaret's Cave to pray and wash the feet of the poor.
The final resting place of Robert the Bruce is beneath a fine brass memorial plate ensuring that it cannot be missed as his original resting place of 1295 was lost and only discovered again in 1821. Some of Scotland’s other great medieval monarchs were laid to rest at Dunfermline Abbey including St Margaret herself, her husband Malcolm III, and their sons Alexander I and David I The Dunfermline Abbey Nave and Palace Visitors Centre tells the history of the abbey and of the later palace that was built on the site of the monastic buildings. A magnificent 70 metre long buttressed wall is all that now remains of the palace where Charles I was born. To the west of the abbey is a mound known as Malcolm's Tower, all that remains of Malcolm's 11th century fortress. The town takes part of its name from the mound, as Dunfermline means "fort on the hill by the crooked stream". Across the road from the abbey is the entrance to Pittencrieff Park which was bestowed to the town by Andrew Carnegie in 19o8. The park had always fascinated him as a boy, and as it was privately owned at the time he was always denied access. So, with his fortune he bought it and opened it to the people of the town. The park takes in part of the glen which was admired for its breathtaking views from the windows of the Royal Palace. The park still retains its captivating charm, being a popular locale for the residents of Dunfermline. Also in the park is Pittencrieff House Museum, based in a 17th century mansion with an art gallery and displays on local history. Andrew Carnegie Birthplace Museum Dunfermline's most famous son, Andrew Carnegie, was born here in 1835. The son of a weaver who emigrated to the USA, his keen business acumen amassed him a fortune in the steel industry, a fortune, more than $350 million which made him the richest man in the world at the time. He saw fit to give it away by lavishing much of it on endowing schools, colleges, and free public libraries. His home town was a big beneficiary and helped transform a grey workaday place into a well resourced community with amenities like Dunfermline's Carnegie Library, one of nearly 3,000 worldwide. To this day, the various Trusts and Foundation established by Carnegie still operate and dispense £100 every minute. Other amenities in Dunfermline like the local museum, the Music Institute, and the substantial Pittencrieff Park all reflect his huge generosity. New York does not have the only Carnegie Hall, Dunfermline has one as well, housing a theatre and concert hall. The history of the town is explained in the Dunfermline Museum and Small Gallery. At one time the town was a centre for manufacturing linen and silk until the 20th century. There are special displays of the Dunfermline Linen Damask Collection. Aberdour"Aberdour" is a scenic and historic village with a winding High Street that lies a little inland from the coast with narrow lanes running from it, providing access to the more hidden parts of the village and the shoreline with its two beaches where there is a pleasant little harbour; though beware that parking at the foot of Shore Road is usually at a premium. The origins of the village lie with its harbour, where the Dour Burn enters the River Forth. The place-name itself is Pictish, implying an origin in the Dark Ages: aber 'confluence'. The -dour element, referring to the Burn, means simply 'water. In the fifteenth century, Aberdour Castle had come into the ownership of the Douglas family, the Earls of Morton. James Douglas 4th Earl of Morton, who was Regent of Scotland from 1572 to 1578, extended the property considerably. In August 1576, the castle's new central range (as it is known today) hosted a meeting of the Privy Council, who could at the same time have admired Morton's brand new terraced gardens, which are now restored to their former glory. Regent Morton, one of the castle's most notorious residents, had a passion and enthusiasm for gardening belying his ruthless personality as he was later tried and executed in 1581 for his alleged involvement in the murder of Lord Darnley, husband to Mary Queen of Scots thirteen years earlier. Ownership of the castle and title passed to his nephew, and so stayed with the Douglas family.
The neighbouring St Fillan's Church is one of the best-preserved medieval parish churches in Scotland, dating largely to the 12th century. A south arcade was added to the nave in the early 16th century. Though falling into disrepair, by 1925 work began on restoration and it is now open for services once more. Inchcolm IslandOn Inchcolm are the substantial ruins of Inchcolm Abbey, dedicated to St Columba. King David I of Scotland founded a priory there which eventually became Inchcolm Abbey in 1223. David was keeping the promise to build a monastery there, made by his brother Alexander I who had sought refuge on the island with his mother, Queen Margaret, during a severe storm. Having spent three days and nights on the island with a hermit who shared out his meagre rations with them Alexander wanted the monastery dedicated to St Columba in thanksgiving for their safe passage. Alexander died before he could put his plans into action.
There is considerable history attached to the island and the abbey. During the Wars of Independence, the monastery was often attacked and plundered during the summer months by the English. Even as late as WWII the island played a crucial role, being fortified with gun emplacements which can still be seen today. Please note that tours to the island operate regularly from the southern shore of the Forth at South Queensferry. North QueensferryLying literally in the shadow of two of the Forth bridges, North Queensferry acquired its name from medieval times when Queen Margaret was a regular user of the small ferry on her travels between Edinburgh and Dunfermline. It was not until 1964, when the road bridge was opened that the ferry service stopped. Deep Sea World boasts the largest underwater tunnel in the UK, some 120 metres in length, made of course from specially toughened glass. Popular with children as they will experience different varieties of fish and sea life like sharks, stingrays, electric eels, sea urchins and anemones. North Queensferry is the start of the 100 km long Fife Coastal Path which passes through most of the picturesque towns and villages on the Fife coast all the way to the Tay Bridge on the Firth of Tay. CulrossWander around the charming town of Culross and step back in time to the 16th century. The whitewashed, red pantiled buildings with their stepped gables, are well preserved, such as Culross Town House, formerly used as a courthouse and prison, where witches were tried and held while awaiting their fate. The streets are cobbled, and around the old Mercat Cross have a feature known as the "crown o' the causie", where 17th century class distinction dictated who walks where. This leads up behind the magnificent Town House to the Study, a restored house, built in 161o, that takes its name from the small room at the top of the corbelled projecting tower. Explore the ruins of Culross Abbey, a Cistercian monastery of the 12oos, once home to a community of monks and lay brothers. Built in the 12oos and a survivor of the Scottish Reformation of 156o, the choir and presbytery of the Abbey Church was taken over as the Parish Church and still retains an active congregation. Culross is said to have been the site of an early Christian community led by St Serf and of which St Kentigern (Mungo of Glasgow) was a member.
During the 16th and 17th centuries, the town was the centre of the coal mining industry and it was Sir George's who established the first coal mine in the world to extend under the sea in 1575, a later feature of coal mining in the area under the Forth until its demise last century. The town was also known for its monopoly on the manufacture of 'girdles', i.e. flat iron plates for baking over an open fire. In the Scottish tradition, gridles have a flat wrought iron disk with an upturned rim to which a semi-circular hoop handle is attached, allowing the girdle to be suspended over the fire from a central chain and hook. The gridle is used for cooking scones, bannocks, pancakes, and oatcakes. The forerunner to the modern commercial griddle with variations for the barbecue and the South African Braai. KirkcaldyA wee book, published in 1776, which has had a profound influence throughout the world and is still a source of much debate and reference, was written by a Kirkcaldy boy by the name of Adam Smith, regarded as the founder of modern economics. The Wealth of Nations was an instant success, selling out its first edition in only six months. Smith was born in Kirkcaldy in 1723 and went on to occupy the chair of Moral Philosophy at Glasgow University. Also born in the town were William Adam the architect and his son, Robert Adam. The ruins of Ravenscraig Castle stand on a promontory to the east of the town. The castle was built in the 15th century by King James II essentially for his Queen Mary of Gueldres who eventually had to oversee the construction after the sudden death of her husband. The castle was designed to withstand the latest artillery attack of the day, but centuries later was easily overrun by Oliver Cromwell's troops. It was last used for storage of munitions during WWI. FalklandTucked below the Lomond Hills, Falkland is your perfect wee gem, an unspoilt little burgh which grew up around a royal hunting lodge which became the superb Renaissance inspired Falkland Palace & Gardens, built between 15o1 and 1541. The palace was once the favourite country retreat of the Stewart Kings and Queens from the time of James V. He extended the building considerably adding the beautiful Chapel Royal and a Royal Tennis Court in 1539. When you visit Falkland Palace, you can see the oldest tennis court still in use where Mary Queen of Scots once played. Wander the pleasant gardens with lush lawns and herbaceous borders. In spring the orchard is full of apple, pear. plum and cherry blossoms set against the palace and the Lomond Hills. Within the palace, marvel at the splendour of the interiors and chat with some of the courtiers who can enthral you with their inside knowledge of the Royal Stewarts and what they would get up to.
Falkland has quaint old cobbled streets lined with 17th and 18th century cottages and was the first conservation area established in Scotland. The burgh's Town Hall houses an exhibition of local history. DysartImportant landmarks of Dysart village include the, recently restored, Dutch influenced houses on Pan Ha'; the six-storey St Serf's Church Tower and Dysart Tolbooth which is the centrepiece of Dysart's historic buildings. It was erected on the High Street in 1576. The harbour area, on the other hand, has never looked so good since it was, in part, literally carved out of the coal that outcropped here. Today it is home to a wide variety of pleasure craft. On its north west side the harbour is bounded by a high wall of natural stone. Along the top of this runs what is known as the sailors' walk, a path giving access from the town by a flight of stairs to the outer end of the harbour.
The Harbourmaster's House, a B-listed 19th century building, which sits next to the historic Dysart harbour is home to Fife Coast and Countryside Trust and Fife’s coastal centre. It offers information on the history of the Fife Coastal Path, and things to see and do when meandering this scenic coastal route. The centre also has interactive displays on the history of the region, the North Sea and the ancient trading routes between Europe and Dysart. There is also the Harbourmaster's Bistro where you can watch the Fulmars as they put on their nesting display in the surrounding cliffs, while enjoying lunch or a relaxing coffee. In 1815, Dysart was the birthplace of John McDouall Stuart, regarded as the most successful explorer of Australia's interior. His birthplace is maintained as a museum celebrating his achievements. KinghornHistory refers to Kinghorn Castle to where King Alexander III, the last of the Scotland's Celtic kings, was making his way home to his new French born wife, Yolande de Dreux. It was 1286, during a bad storm at night and against the wishes of his courtiers, the king decided to press on. It was at Pettycur Crags that his body was found next morning, having been thrown from his horse and suffered fatal injuries. It was this event that triggered what was to become the Wars of Independence with England. Alexander's only living heir was his 3 year old granddaughter, Margaret, the "Maid of Norway" who unfortunately died on her way to Scotland leaving a vacuum which the English King Edward I decided to exploit by incorporating Scotland into his own kingdom. A tall monument at the side of the road, erected in 1886, marks the spot where Alexander died. Kinghorn Castle has now passed into mythology with archaeologists having identified two possible sites, now built over. However, Kinghorn Parish Church which dates from 1774, has partial remains of an earlier church dating from 1243 in the kirkyard. Would this have been where Royalty worshiped?
The beach at Kinghorn, with its little harbour, is set within a steep backdrop, presenting a pretty picture and at low tide presents long enjoyable walks along the wet and dry sands, passing Pettycur, to neighbouring Burntisland. BurntislandThe small royal burgh of Burntisland was a port even in Roman times and by Victorian times was the second most important port on the Forth, exporting coal from the local coalfields. It is now more of a resort with a popular sandy beach though it does enjoy some of the benefits of the Oil Industry. Overlooking Burntisland is a neat little 210 metre hill known as the Binns which provides great views over the Firth of Forth; ideal for a sunny summers evening stroll. St Columba's Parish Church has an unusual design for a church, lots of history and an important claim to fame. It is regarded as the birthplace of the "Authorised Version of the Bible". In May of 16o1 King James VI attended a General Assembly of the Church of Scotland and put forward the proposal for the Bible to be translated into English for everyone's benefit, a suggestion that was enthusiastically received but did not happen until James had assumed the throne of Britain. James's son Charles I had very good reason to remember Burntisland as he lost most of his estimated £20 million treasure when his baggage ship, the Blessing of Burntisland foundered and sank just of the coast here. The Museum of Communication explores how our communications systems have developed from the pre-electric telegraph to the present day. There is a large collection of artefacts covering early electrics, telegraphy, telephony, radio and television and information technology. Burntisland is home to the second oldest highland games in the world starting in 1652. The Burntisland Highland Games take place in July and attract around 30,000 visitors to the town.
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St Andrews Cathedral
You cannot fail to miss the impressive Dunfermline Abbey, founded by Queen Margaret and greatly extended by her equally devout son David I in the early 11oos. Only the nave of the medieval church has survived, its massive Norman columns reminiscent of Durham Cathedral's Romanesque architecture.
The nearby ochre-coloured Culross Palace, built by wealthy coal merchant Sir George Bruce of Carnock in the late 16th century, is in fact not a palace but a grand and impressive house. It is an outstanding example of domestic architecture of the period. The interiors are fascinating, with colourfully painted pine panelling depicting Biblical scenes, plus Dutch tiles, and authentic 17th and 18th century furniture. You can explore the small rooms and connecting passageways, The Laird's Room, leading to a stone-vaulted strongroom, where Sir George's valuable documents were stored for safe-keeping. Documents like royal charters were just as valuable as actual cash, and Sir George needed a safe, fireproof place for storage. The most impressive room, however, is The Painted Chamber, an amazing room, probably created in the early 17th century. The painted wood panelling is a marvel; with panels depicting Biblical scenes. with a Latin moral maxim above and a rhyming couplet below each scene. Behind the Palace is a re-creation of a 17th century garden, with terraced beds mixing produce for the kitchen with fragrant and colourful places to relax.
